Showing posts with label gelatin. Show all posts
Showing posts with label gelatin. Show all posts

Sunday, October 05, 2008

The Daily American

In finishing up the "Come to Where Fresh Is" dinner,
I get my chickens from a local farm, Myers Poultry , Diane is awesome at getting me birds pretty much any time of year and any time of day really. On the current menu I have some southern roots remnants with fried chicken and collards. For this evenings dinner I did Diane's chicken two ways, I took my favorite part of the thigh (the larger mussel from the outer side) and gave it a traditional buttermilk, egg, and hot sauce brine over night then breaded it with our own breading mixture. Nothing special really, but who doesn't love fried chicken? Especially if you're like me and a thigh man. I served the fried thigh over my favorite collards. The recipe for the collards is a combination of what Jeff and I used to make at Charleston Chops and what Chef Bob Wagonner used to make at Charleston Grill.
There's a swipe of smoked acorn squash puree (I can't tell you how amazing this puree smells, like smoked buttered popcorn on steroids).
I slow poached the breast in some brewed tea, sliced and served on top of the chocolate ancho sausage.
When trying to utilize local farmers, I finally got in contact with a local bison farm....only too late for the dinner. But, I have them on hand to use in the future. In doing these ribs, I wanted so bad to have the resources of other chefs, it's hard not to want all the latest gadgets to do these amazing things you read about with amazingly expensive pieces of equipment. But...then I realized, I have what some may remember...an alto-sham. A very familiar oven for cooking and holding prime ribs for steak houses or banquet facilities. Well, these ribs where braised at a constant 180 degrees for 22 hours in birch beer. The braising liquid was then turned into a fig bbq, the plate finished with smoked cauliflower, raisins and brussel sprouts. You can't see it here but there's a caramel spoon bread under the rib.
The last course was a bitch.
It came down to crunch time (we also had about 800 ppl in banquets before this dinner was to take place, time to play and experiment was extremely limited) and still no dessert. I wanted to do two, but damn we didn't even have enough plates to do everything I wanted to do. This was going to be an introduction to fall, Pumpkin Pie Noodles with Spiced Apple Gelee and vanilla ice cream from a local supply. Valley Dairy honestly has some of the best ice cream I've ever had and their original factory is about five minutes from my house.


Another hard part about this dish was something coming from the Starchefs congress in NY last month. Watching Heston Blumenthal pour scented liquid over dry ice for the whole audience to enjoy got the idea just stuck in my head. It's such an easy and fun addition, except for finding the dry ice that is. Ed, my sales rep from Reinhart always comes through...60 pounds worth through.
So, dry ice was placed in the outer bowl and in front of every diner was a "light bulb" with our logo on it filled with Chai tea and other spices. It was placed there prior to them ever sitting down, so as the last dish was served I was explaining to the room what to do with their party favor.
It worked out pretty well. It's hard to fit dinners like this into a tight schedule and small staff, but damn if doesn't feel good when it all comes together. It's a rewarding life to feed others.

A recap of the evening can be read here: http://www.dailyamerican.com/articles/2008/10/05/news/news/news221.txt

Thursday, February 28, 2008

Foo Fighters / LA story

I didn't meet them or anything. Someone, I'm not sure how to get a hold of, made a couple copies for me and I can't stop listening to them.
Thank You.
So, we traveled up the 101 (well, eventually) through Santa Barbara, Los Olivos, Solvang and then on to Lompoc. This is what makes up most of the third and forth days. We ended up on the "Sideways" tour at times and a little lost at times. I slept in the car for the most part.

At one point we went out to eat and I had an Epiphany...the food sucked!
"Does my food suck?" I asked myself.
After all, we were enjoying foods I've made before in professional career. You know: Chicken, Filet, Lamb Chops, salmon maybe? this wonderful plate of calamari.....this shitty plate of calamari. No flavor, no love, no respect for what it is what sauces go with it (a freaking lemon wedge?! Come on! My Lamb was plated in the modern day approach of linking all the bones together in the center over a slob of roasted garlic mashed potatoes with a sprig of Rosemary sticking out of it....oh wait....that's how it's been done for the past 70(?) years minus the mint jelly.
As much as I try, I know I don't hit it on the nose every time and I always always wish I could do better, but I feel a little better at night knowing I tried. I don't ever want to rest on my laurels, or laurels from years past. Food can't progress as long as millions of customers are willing to pay too much for mediocre food. It bothers me when time is running out and I end up serving something I'm not completely satisfied with, yet the customer loved it. It doesn't make me feel any better.


We did make it to the Pacific Ocean, and drove on the beach (you can do that on Pismo Beach), it was pretty damn cold but awesome to see the hillsides so close to the shore.

I also ran into a little Agar Agar in it's natural state.
Very cool.

Thursday, February 14, 2008

Fun with Consomme and gelatin








Just a couple flavors I've been playing around with. Anything is possible really.


About 3grams of powdered Gelatin to 1 Qt. "stock", freeze then let thaw over coffee filter in walk-in over night.


The amazing thing, is the mouth feel the small amount of gelatin leaves in the final product.